Bruce and Barbara Exstrum recently returned from a custom Myths and Mountains journey to Peru! Below is an intriguing account of their experience and a few photos, snapped along the way.... 

We wanted to celebrate our milestone birthdays with a special trip.  Our planning started with Machu Picchu and escalated from there.  How much could we fit into 14 days but spend enough time to get to know each place?  Allie took our wish list and turned it into a well-crafted custom itinerary:  deep rain forest for a week, then Cuzco-Machu Picchu-Sacred Valley, followed by a scenic bus ride to Puno with a home stay on Lake Titicaca, and just enough time for a day’s tour of Lima before heading home.  We emerged at the other end exhausted (by design) but very happy and with many wonderful memories.  We made all of our connections, the accommodations were as advertised, and our guides were very professional, knowledgeable, and fun to be with.    

We highly recommend the Tambopata Research Center for getting the full rain forest experience, complete with a rare spider monkey sighting (plus watching the expert river pilots in both low water and very high water), Machu Picchu of course (no pictures prepare you for how breathtaking that first view is), the bus from Cuzco to Puno (we were dubious about the wisdom of taking a 9-hour bus ride, but it’s a really comfortable bus with interesting stops and as it turned out, we appreciated the chance to sit for a while), and the home stay on Taquile Island in Lake Titicaca, which  came with beautiful people, beautiful views, and some of the best food of the trip. 

However, we may not yet be able to claim membership in the Adventure Travel community because 1) Everything went as planned.  2) The closest we came to a “crisis” was having the soles of Barb’s hiking boots come apart (both shoes!) halfway through our visit to Machu Picchu. In an uncharacteristic fit of packing light, Barb had brought only these shoes on this part of the trip, but was saved by a kind vendor at the market in Aguas Calientes who not only had superglue for sale, but helped us apply it to make sure it would work (temporarily, but long enough to get us through the day). 3) We spent our last several hours before our late flight from Lima observing the local culture at the high-end cliffside Larcomar shopping center (but there is a small satellite of the Gold Museum there).  Did we mention we were exhausted and not thinking clearly?

Thanks again to Allie, Katie, and everyone at M&M and their excellent local providers for giving us such a memorable experience and several future months of sorting and editing the photos. 

If you're thinking of traveling to Nepal, take a minute to read our friend Everett Potter's blog post on his 36-hour experience in Nepal.

Read his humorous blog entry.

If you've been to Nepal, his story will ring true with you.

We arrived in Lo Manthang on the 19th of May and we were met at the gate to our lodging by the library management committee, armed with kataks, white scarves used in the Tibetan world to honor guests, and smiles.  After lunch and a bit of time to wash the grime off our bodies, they returned to escort us to the library. 
 
The building is amazing.  It occupies both angles of a street corner, directly across from the entry to the royal palace, and is painted in the typical primary colors of red, blue, green, and yellow, as well as white.  The main entrance was closed until  the innauguration, two days later.  
 
The library is on the second floor and the bottom floor contains 11 prime-front storefronts that are almost all rented now.  Inside is a square courtyard space with a beautiful prayer flag pole in the center.  Directly opposite the entrance on the second floor is a large meeting room which will also provide rental income to support the library.
 
The stairs are on the left as you enter and take you first to the large reading room.  Here, in addition to the regular books, one can find a place for lamas to sit, pray and find religious books and a set of books in Tibetan.  The sign, however, does not read "Tibetan Books", but "Local Language", as they do not want to be identified with Tibet.  
 
The next room is the children's section, perhaps one of the best equipped of all the libraries.  Not only are there the educational toys from Dorothy Adamson and the American School in the Hague, but other learning toys as well.  The Early Childhood Center (ECC), sponsored by the American Himalayan Society, will operate 6 days a week from 9-4 in this room.
 
Next is the cultural section, with musical instrument, films, and items that reflect the fascinating culture of Lo Manthang.  There is talk that the museum across the street will also occupy this space.
 
Of course there is the AV room and computer section with two computers.  The Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) is going to provide connectivity for the library. 
 
Without doubt, this is the most incredible building in Lo and everyone, everyone is amazed!
 
On the 19th, the management committee took us on a tour of the ECC and the government school.  The ECC is presently in dark two-room building with an outdoor play area.  There are 19 children who are 2-3 years old, 1 teacher and three parents.  Three of the children, who sit together in the last row, are lower caste, and one of the mothers is also from that class and works specifically with them.  The teachers work on hygiene (each child has a tooth brush, etc.), alphabet and songs.  They sang for us, and then I taught them "Sano, Sano Makura" (The Eensy Weensy Spider).
 
About a 10 minute walk away along a path lined with water and assorted piles of goat, horse and yak droppings was the government school that goes up to grade 8.  The only secondary school in Upper Mustang is in Chosar, 3 hours away.  Most of the children here who go on to grade 10 and above go down to Jomsom or Pokhara for education, though.  From October through mid-April, the school and all the students and teachers physically move to Pokhara for the winter, as it is too cold in Mustang. 
 
The locals have been very concerned about the quality of education, and have turned the school into a community school.  That means that local leaders have set up a fund to provide three extra teachers, more books, etc.  The leader of this is Gyapcho, the head of the library committee.  Interestingly also, when one looks at the students in grade 8, the highest at the time, they are all women.  When I asked why, the answer was that the men went to the monastery school.
 
In the afternoon, we visited the three monasteries in town - Thuptchen, Jhampa and Choede - with the librarian, Diki.  All belong to the Sakya sect and Choede is the foremost, with a school that houses many, many monks.  Actually, the housing for the monks was built by the Indian Government, an effort to curry favor with this area bordering on Tibet, and with a road that literally links China and India.  The Rimpoche is the key religious person in town. 
 
Walking the town is amazing.  Because of the wind, the alleys are narrow, either stone or dirt, and bordered by high homes on both sides.  As you turn a corner, you can see anything from a group of women with lined, weather-worn brown faces, sitting on the ground spinning wool, to someone killing and cutting up a goat for dinner, to a group of horses or yaks wandering along, followed by their keeper with a stick.  Everywhere you go, you need to watch, because some animal has left its mark on the ground to dodge!  Many of the streets have water canals, where people gather to wash clothes, dishes or, often, themselves.
 
The center of the old city is the huge medieval-looking palace of the former King of Mustang and his son, the former Crown Prince Jigme. The monarchy was abolished with the new government, so "former" is politically correct.  Now only six rooms are occupied, but Jigme hopes one day to restore the palace.  He spends much time in Kathmandu, but at least two months here in Lo.
 
We had invited the Crown Prince, JIgme, and the management committee to dinner at our lodge that night.  My friend Utpal, whose wife owns the best restaurant in Kathmandu,  and our incredible trekking crew prepared a magnificent dinner.  In the dirt courtyard of our building, they erected a large tent with Tibetan designs, and a smaller tent that would house the buffet dinner.  Chaitya, our truly incomparable cook, and his group worked all day to prepare dinner.  They took cans of sardines, covered them in foil, filled them with dirt, and put candles inside to give light.  They scrambled to find dishes and table covers to decorate the tables, and the tempting smells of mutton curry, dal, bhat, wonderful mixed vegetables and achar filled the air.  They even baked a chocolate cake for me!
 
The group arrived together at 7PM, led by Jigme, the Crown Prince, and Gyapcho, the committee head.  Jigme is a delight - down to earth, funny, friendly, truly very natural.  He had spent time in the US, primarily in California, with Richard Blum, but had also seen other places.  His English was okay, but it was clearly easier to communicate in Nepali.   At first conversation was a bit stilted, but Utpal's jokes and lots of beer (except for the Choede Lama!), loosed up the conversation.  Some I could follow, but the punch lines of the jokes went over my head!
 
Yesterday was the first day of Tiji.  In the morning, on my way over to internet, I got waylayed by the head of ACAP to sit on the dais for their "birthday celebration".  It was a blend of speeches that were too long and songs by local students and others. 
 
Then, in the afternoon, Tiji began.  Tiji is basically a festival for peace, an exorcism festival where the main deity is Guru Rimpoche.  It lasts three days, and the last day the monks take the sins of the village, in the form of "tormas", figures of flour, food coloring and water, and break them, carry them outside the village and and shoot flaming arrows off into the air.
 
Each day begins with the unfurling of a Thanka (large picture) of Guru Rimpoche.  The first day is primarily dancing that is geared to cleansing the area of evil and invoking the gods.  The second day depicts the forces of good and evil, and the last is the final exorcism.  There is a cadre of monks who are the "orchestra" and sit under the thanka with symbols and long horns, providing music for the monk/dancers.  Then, costumed, and sometimes wth masks, about 8 monks perform a series of ritual dances, led by a monk who is the embodiment of Guru Rimpoche.  He has actually spent the last three weeks in solitary meditation in preparation for the festival. 
When each dance ends, the monks sit in two lines facing each other and are served tea. 
 
Lining the square in front of the palace, hanging from roof tops, sitting on top of one another is the audience - a blend of locals and foreigners.  The foreigners are all wearing photo passes, bought for Rs. 375/day.  Kids are teasing each other, pulling pigtails, rolling around, women are crowded together on the cobblestones, and everyone is jockeying for a good position.  Luckily, I met one of the store owners at the school, and she offered me her stoop with a small Tibetan Carpet to soften the stones!!
 
After the day's dancing ended, I rushed back to clean up and dress for dinner.  I had brought my Sherpa dress and the apron that is particular to this part of the world, and dressed like the locals.
 
This time, we were invited to the palace!  Now, Tibetan style houses all have narrow and very steep stairs that lead from one floor to another; but, to get to the main floor of the palace, in total darkness, we had to climb four of these staircases!  Aside from an excercise in courage and gymnastics, it was also a breathing excercise. 
 
Know that the first time you meet people in Nepal, you are guests and everyone is restrained and polite.  The second time, you are friends and joking and fun are par of the course.  People sat on carpet-covered benches that lined two walls in the room.  The third wall was a buffet dinner and the last held a beautifully carved chest painted with gold color.  Jigme served wine, beer and assorted hors d'oeuvres until everyone was suitably happy.  Then we all ate dinner - not as good as ours - but just fun to be there.  The biggest debate of the night was over education and how to get your child into the best schools, particularly if you are not a celebrity.
 
Today was the key day for READ.  We awoke at 6 and were ready to go the the library for the dedication by 8.  Things were late, of course.  The monks had to finish praying and purifying the place and many people were let inside the courtyard area.  Sanjana and I were both dressed in local clothes, as beautifully as we could.  When it was time, Gyapcho came by and we walked the back way to the palace.  There were special local drummers, dancing up and down and the library committee dressed in full Tibetan dress and the wonderful tall, furred silk hats. As we arrived, Jigme descended the stairs, dressed in a long Tibetan sort of coat, and hat.  He and I together walked towards the library, preceeded by the drummers and followed by Sanjana, the READ staff and the library committee. 
 
Outside the palace confines it was amazing.  Children of all sizes and shapes lined the pavement holding Kataks, parents would lift up their little one so he could drape the katak over my or someone's shoulders, the crowds were huge - a scene out of some medieval movie, a Lhasa apso was running around barking at everyone, and goats were peeking out around corners.  In front of the library on one side were a group of older girls dressed in white Tibetan dresses, and on the other, a group of boys in male dress.  They sang and danced for us.  Opposite was a tiny boy in full Tibetan dress, with a hat as big as he was on his head, holding a plate of butter.  There were two girls, one with wheat and one with tea.  I watched as Jigme took some butter, dipped in in the wheat and took some and then threw it in the air.  Next he took a drop of tea with the 4th finger of his hand and dropped it on the ground for the gods.
 
I was handed a huge key for a huge lock, and, fortunately helped to open the door.  We entered to find the courtyard packed, and students all along the uppper part of the library.  Taken to our seats, I sat in front with Jigme on one side and Sanjana on the other.  Behind us, on the upper level, monks blew their horns, cymbals clanged and water was thrown to purify the area.  Then we were given bowls of rice and dried fruits.  After prayers, we had to eat some, so that the ceremony could begin.  Next, we all took a small handful of Tsampa flour and barley in our hands, turned around, and, at a signal from the monks, threw it at the prayer flag, while muskets were fired from the roof. 
 
The next step was for me to pull the curtain on the plaque, describing the date and key innauguration information.
 
Turning around, we sang the national anthem, and the program began.  Basically, local dances alternated with speeches - a budget report followed by Tibetan dancing, a committee comment, followed by kids in masks.  Many of the speeches were in Tibetan, so even Sanjana could not follow.  In this world, the most important speeches were last.  Sanjana gave her speech, and then read Allison's speech to everyone in both Nepali and English (there were many foreigners).  
 
After dancing, I went next, talking in Nepali, something that works very well with the locals.  There were also quite a few tourists, allowing for an English description of READ and what it does.  Several left donations and left me with their names. 
 
The final speech was that of Jigme, basically a thank you to all.  Following a group photo, we all went outside to greet, as Jigme said, the "people".  It was mind-boggling - old ladies, cripples, men, their faces lined with the dirt of the area or age, more children and animals.  The people were all trying to give kataks, touch our faces or feet, or stick out their tongues in a gesture of friendship.  In Tibet, to show that you were not evil with a black tongue, it became a custom to greet people by sticking out your pink tongue!! 
 
We all walked very slowly past this assembly of incredible well-wishers, preceded by the drummer, back to the palace door.  Then Jigme headed back and this incredible morning was over.
 
I wish there were time to truly give a better sense of the colors, faces of the people, the clothes.  Let me just say that I have dedicated probably more than 35 libraries over the years.  This was the most unbelievable, medieval, ritual, humbling, exhilerating dedication, in one of the most remote, most unique communities not just in Nepal, but in the world. 

Toni Neubauer, President of Myths and Mountains & Founder of READ Global

As far as the eye can see the stones of the Kali Gandhaki riverbed stretch north, bordered on each side by tall brown cliffs and with the tips of snow capped mountains dotting the horizon.  Walking along a path through the stones, worn by travelers - both local and international, horses, mule trains and now cars, tractors and motor cycles, you find yourself searching the stones to find one of the magical saligrams, fossils of fish, shells and other creatures that inhabited the Tibetan plateau thousands of years ago and now wash down with the river waters.  To the Hindus and Buddhists, these fossils are not only sacred, a symbol of Vishnu, but a source of income from sales to tourists and pilgrims.
 
As you walk, there is no shade at all and the path alternates between steep climbs up onto the river banks and alongside stone and dirt walls and sandy unstable sharp drops back onto the riverbed.  The dominant color is brown, brown walls, brown sandy dirt dotted with black stones.  The only other colors, aside from the clothes of the hikers and animals is the bright blue of the sky with an occasional white peak of a mountain top.
 
Suddenly, far in the distance, you begin to see the brown and white Tibetan style houses and fields of wheat that signal a small village - an oasis in this dry desolate area.  By this time, the fierce wind that blows through the Kali Gandhaki gorge has come up, and dust and dirt are everywhere - in your teeth, your hair, your bags, your clothes.  The wheat fields that are finally beginning to line the side of the path are in constant motion - waving stalks of green dancing at your feet. 
 
As you pass through the town, there are donkeys and Tibetan ponies lining the narrow streets and if you do not look down, without doubt you will find your foot in a pile of droppins.  Women are washing clothes in the water canals that parallel the path or where there is a fountain.  Men are sitting in the sun talking, their faces lined and brown from the wind and constant sun. 
 
We picknicked in an apple orchard - a rare spot of green along this dry desert route - a delicious lunch of dal rice, green vegetables, salad and potato curry all prepared in a corner of the orchard on gas cooking stoves by our staff. 
 
Then it was back to the brown, but this time on a Tibetan pony, perhaps the best way to travel this desert region with its difficult ups and downs.  Again, the path led across the river bed, sun beating down, wind blowing in never-ending gusts, making it difficult to keep any hat on one's head.  Finally, around a turn, high up on a hill, we could see Chele.  The horse picked his way through the stones and sand of the river.  Suddenly, another horseman cantered by.  Inspired, the horse picked up his pace, cantering along the stones, despite the shouts of the horsemen, afraid their precious client would tumble down onto the rocks.  The horse turned uphill after the other horse, and began climbing through sand, stones and on a sharp uphill.  Walking, the hike would be 45 minutes of steep unbroken sun and sand.  On horseback, it took about 10 minutes.
 
Finally, arriving at the top, the horse knew exactly where camp was, a small enclosure, lined with flowers and now filled with 4 red tents.  We had done the first leg.

 More later,

The diversity of China is truly incredible when one travels beyond the metropolis of Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong. To learn about China’s 3,000 year old history, see the cultural diversity and think about how far China has advanced in the last 20 years is extraordinary. There is much to see and learn in China... Traveling in China allows experiences such as drinking tea with nomads, taking part in Tibetan dances with the locals, visiting grottoes that survived the Cultural Revolution, visiting the Great Wall - one of the Seven Wonders of the Medieval Minds - and visiting diverse minority groups that still thrive on ancient traditions. The colorful powerhouse is home to nearly 60 minority groups that still thrive in pockets of China, half these groups living in the lush mountainous Yunnan region. In the Yunnan, we were able to observe villagers living the same way their ancestors did, building houses the way their parents did, and constructing crafts passed down from generation to generation. Here we stayed in the quaint villages of Shangri-la and Lijiang and lollygaged around the cobblestone streets at night. Red silk lanterns set the mood for local cuisine of yak momos and "crossing the bridge" noodle soup, both delicious. In the Qinghai province, the area of the Tibetan grasslands, we visited Tibetan nomads living in the grasslands for the summer and discussed their transient lifestyle and animal husbandry. Making stops along the ancient Silk Road allowed us to envision the European traders sharing their goods, skills and spiritual beliefs. Visiting ancient and highly revered Buddhist grottoes and murals that survived the Cultural Revolution, as the only tourist around, created an authentic understanding. Western China is a true cultural experience and a far off the beaten path place.  

I would rate the overall value of this trip quite high.

Days did not always turn out as we had hoped, but that's part of adventure travel. For instance, one day we traveled 2+ hours up treacherous mountain roads only to have to abort our plans for trekking to El Morado because the road was impassable (due to recent heavy rains). That I might add, however, that not following the planned itinerary many times allowed us to do and see things we would not have experienced otherwise.

All the hotels were very nice, except for one. However, upon learning of the situation, Myths & Mountains immediately took steps to move us to nicer accommodations. The breakfasts in the hotels were quite hearty, especially in comparison to breakfasts in hotels in the U.S, and the lunches that were included afforded us the opportunity to enjoy some of the local cuisine.

We were upgraded to the premium package on the Wine Train. With the sun shining, breezes blowing through the open windows of the dining car, guitars strumming, musicians singing, and food & wine flowing, we literally floated on air by the time we reached our destination in Santa Cruz. This experience was definitely a highlight of our trip!

Louise Girvin

It's late on Monday afternoon and before we head off for an hour massage given to us by blind men for only sixteen bucks - AN HOUR!!! - just wanted to let you know that we arrived here on Saturday afternoon and have been having just a fabulous time.

On our first day, we were picked up in Managua and driven an hour to Granada, an old colonial city that reminds me of Cuzco, Peru. Sans altitude and attitude. We checked into our lovely little hotel and wandered half a block to discover that we were literally just footsteps away from the main plaza, which was hosting a huge literary and music festival. It was hopping. I broke every rule in the book - I talked to strangers, ate freshly peeled mangos sliced and salted in plastic bags, walked around cobblestone streets that were unlit, etc. That night we ate at a pizza place that was fantastic.

Sunday we spent most of the day at the huge handicraft market, shopping for bargains, stopped at a volcanic crater lagoon, and ate tons of local food for about $5 each. That afternoon it rained, so we sat in the courtyard of the hotel and played cards, then had dinner at a vegetarian restaurant.

Today we had an early start and went kayaking in the lake for a few hours around the hundreds of islands that dot the lake. It was windy and quite a workout, but really beautiful. This afternoon, we drove an hour up boulder strewn dirt roads to the top of a volcano to a rainforest, where I shrieked and screamed and cried through seven zipline courses, throwing myself off the top of trees, zooming to another tree while howler monkeys and parakeets buzzed me. So we're all tired and sore and ready for our one hour sixteen dollar massage by some blind men on the street corner spa.

Tomorrow we're off on a two hour drive that leaves at 5 am to catch a one hour ferry to an island in the middle of a volcanic crater. We're there for one night before returning to Managua and flying to the Corn Island for four days of seafood and snorkeling. Everyone's having a great time and WISH YOU WERE HERE.

UPDATE:  Now back from Nicaragua and enjoyed the last few days of relaxing beach time on Corn Island, a little gem of a Caribbean island which receives few American visitors.  Though it has a long way to go until it reaches Costa Rica or Ecuador Rock Star Eco-Tourism status, Nicaragua's rough edges has its advantages - quite inexpensive and few crowds.

Jesse and I just returned from a whirlwind 3 weeks filled with endless plates of dahl baht (the local dish of rice & veggies), countless cups of tea, smiling children with runny noses, and strange glances at the Amazonian blond girl. 

The adventure began in Kathmandu, a mass of humanity that assaults your senses on every level. There are people and motorbikes swarming around you, cars honking, people yelling, smells of spices, smoke and urine, an energy so palpable you can almost touch it.  We visited beautiful Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and shrines and the impact of their religion is felt in every aspect of life. 

We also visited Pashupati which is where Hindus bring their dead to be burned on funeral pyres next to the river and later sweep the ashes into the water.  The government kindly provides the wood for this.  What struck me was the group of local onlookers sitting on the other side of the river just casually observing families getting rid of what they call "the used vessels" of their loved ones.  Everything has a public, community feel to it here even death.

After two days in Kathmandu, we hit the road for a 5 hour drive to Pokhara and the gateway to the Annapurna mountain range.  Just as we were arriving in Pokhara, the traffic stopped.  Apparently, the students in Pokhara were protesting something and had parked jeeps across the main road into the city.  In case you aren't familiar, strikes like this happen fairly regularly in Nepal so I almost felt like it was my right of passage to experience one. 

Because of the frequency of the strikes, certain rules have been established so that ambulances, wedding parties and yes, tourists are allowed to pass through the barricades.  Our guide unfolded a well-used sheet of paper from the dashboard with one word in Nepali written on it "Tourists", taped it to the windshield and we were whisked through an endless line of parked trucks, buses and motorbikes into an unnaturally quiet city.

Nepal is a very mountainous country but it’s not all straight up.  It is up and down, then back up and then back down.  Peaks and valleys repeated.  Except for our hike to Nangi which included a grueling 5 hr UPHILL climb followed by another 1.5 of rolling flats.  In case you missed my capitals, it was 5 hr of steps going up the side of a mountain. Imagine getting on the stairmaster, selecting the most difficult, high altitude setting, and putting the timer on 300 minutes.  After that, though, I am pretty sure I can climb anything you put in front of me.  Did I mention I lost 5 lbs on this trip?

I used my trekking poles to save my knees on this assault and apparently some old women we passed said confusedly, "Well, her face looks young but she is using old person sticks."  This area was not used to seeing westerners and all their fancy hiking gear.  Actually for the first couple days, we were in towns that tourists don't stop in and we didn't see another white face anywhere.  Needless to say, blondie here and her 6 ft 4 escort turned quite a few heads walking around town.  In one town - Kusma - we had some time to kill and so Jesse and I sat outside our "guesthouse" (which had never had western guests before) like the locals do and just played cards.   Within a half hour, we had a small crowd around us trying to communicate.  I had one teenage girl who kept repeating the same sentence to me over and over again like all of a sudden I would miraculously understand Nepali and say, "Oh yes!  I understand now.  You just had to repeat it to me 10 times."  Kind of like how people sometimes speak to foreigners louder to "help" them understand.  I had to laugh.  Between my Lonely Planet translations (they all were able to tell me the time and where the bus was), my handful of Nepali words, hand gestures & funny faces, a small photo book of my home and family (a real hit!), we were able to have a.... interaction - not quite conversation.  I am also pretty sure they were telling me to ditch Jesse and marry one of the boys sitting there.  Or maybe we were just supposed to buy him dinner.

The last adventure I'll share was the flight out of Jomsom back to Pokhara, a 20 min flight and possibly the most intense I've experienced.  First, the plane is so small it is a seat, aisle, seat.  The cockpit was 2 feet away with no curtain so I could have grabbed the wheel if I thought it necessary.  The "stewardess" comes down with a tray of hard candies and cotton balls… for your ears.  We take off and wind through the narrowest valley, mountains towering above and around us.  I have a photo of the window out of the cockpit and a wall of mountains in front of us - luckily we turned.  Very crazy but I decided to remain calm and would only freak out if I saw the pilots freak out.  They didn't.

Namaste!
Kate... who uses old person sticks